Making the Packable Draw Knife

Description

http://www.selfrelianceoutfitters.com

http://astore.amazon.com/davecante-20

Dave Canterbury, David Canterbury, The Pathfinder School,Bush Craft ,Survival skills, Historical Lore, Primitive Skills, Archery, Hunting, Trapping, Fishing, Navigation, Knives, Axes, Fire, Water, Shelter, Search and Rescue

Tags: Bushcraft,Survival,David Canterbury,Dave Canterbury,Pathfinder,The Pathfinder School,Archery,Hunting,Fishing,Camping,Primitive Skills,Fire,Water,Shelter,Navigation,First Aid,Search and Rescue,Signaling,Prepper,Preparedness,Self Reliance,Survivability,The 10 C's,Knives,Axes,Saws,Bow Drill,Ferrocerium Rod,Ferro Rod,Tarp,Hammock,Canteen,Cooking,Longhunter,Trapping

Video Transcription

morning guys I'm Dave Canterbury with self-reliance Outfitters in the Pathfinder school what I thought I'd do today is walk you through the process of how I make a packable draw knife as a production tool that we're going to be able to sell on our website and I've been developing these packable draw knives for a long time and hand forging them just one here and there and I've sold a few of them just some people I've given a couple of them away I've got a couple of myself and a lot of people are asking for these things and they want to purchase them from our website well something that's hand forged that takes an hour or two to make is pretty difficult to sell if you're trying to make anything for your time and labor so you've got to figure out some ways to shortcut that and that's the way production companies that make tools can sell tools at affordable prices that are made in the US so what I've done is I've given a drawing of a packable draw knife to my father who has set it up with our water jet company to water jet these out of 1095

so I'm getting them as a blank form in 1095 and now I'm going to show you how I turn this blank into a workable draw knife that can be sold to the public and we're hoping for right around $30.00 mark stay with okay so here's a pretty up-close look at the blank itself for you guys

water jet leaves some ridges on things during the water jet process so the first thing I'm going to do is I'm going to kind of knock those off or most of them off and then I'm going to clean the rust off of it where it's been sitting outside and collected surface rust from oxidization it says high carbon steel 1095 then I'm going to go ahead and close these loops down and that may be a change that we make in the designs I may have them already closed down I don't ever want them to be a solid hole without the ability to move because I may decide to change the design or I may find out something works better than something else I may want to use the same design and bring this down straight to be able to put handles on this thing there's a lot of things I can do with this design as it stands so I don't ever want to close that but for now what I have been doing and here's one that's in process right now that just came out of heat-treat I'm closing the loops and then creating my 25 degree bubble on one side and then heat treating them and then doing the final finish so let's take this one and talk about the entire process alright so the thing I do is again I just knock those ridges off I do that pretty quickly and then I knock the ridges off on you sauce another level and spring that out to a flat grind and then I do the boys odd just make sure that that is I try to get nice straight flat I want to get rid of all the bump because that's my lead edge okay now I'm going to just take a sanding block and knock the surface rough off of the Sun reflect up and then just use a hammer on the anvil to close these two eyes while still in an anneal and soft state now once I've closed that up I've got a jig set up here that has a 25 degree bevel angle on it with just a couple of screws wood screws to hold this thing where I want it for the initial grinding process and I just try to make sure that I've got an even amount sticking up above when I get this thing screwed down it's going to stay screwed down and this jig until I get ready for the initial heat treat anyway then I'm going to come in here on a belt

now because I'm removing lots of material very quickly I have to continuously cool the workpiece so I'll grind it

then I'll come in and cool it and then go back to grinding you

remember that this is pretty much a single bevel grind on a draw knife with just a little bit of a micro bevel in the backside and it's 25 degrees is what I found works the best for this so we'll just continue to remove this down to where we get down to about a sixteenth of an inch here and then I get back to you

so what I'm doing now is I'm avoiding turning this material blue and trying to get a nice level grind across the speed okay so I don't want to take this down too far on this edge I want to leave myself about 1/16 because when I heat treat it if the edge is too thin it's going to become weak so the important thing now is to give myself just a little bit of meat left on that piece before I heat treat you now we're going to remove it from the jig take it over to the furnace to the propane flame and we're going to heat treat it turn on the gas heater up get over here run on a baguette agitated quench for about two minutes okay so now we've got it out of the forge we have cooled it and now it is hardened okay we have hardened it with the heat treat process if we wanted to make this metal softer and we are making a knife blade or something like that we want to temper it next and heat it up to a certain temperature and leave it at that temperature for a certain amount of time like 425 degrees for two hours for like a knife blade but because we're making more of a chisel type tool we want this to be very very hard and to hold an edge for a long time so we're not going to temper this blade at all the heat treat is enough we'll have a rockwell on this blade somewhere probably between 60 and 65 as is we've got this metal pretty much as hard as it can get without quenching it in water so we've got what we want here now we got to put it back on the jig and do our final grind and that's why we left ourselves some meat so when we do our final growing down to our cutting edge and our micro bevel we have some meat to work with there okay so again as I'm degree down the jig I'm making sure that I've got even amount sticking up above the jig and this is an actual knife jig but just repurposed for these draw knives and now we're ready to do our final drawing which is a very similar process

we just have to be much more careful now not to heat up the blade and turn it color

we'll remove most of our forging mark to get up to a shiny now I'm walking these far because when they start to jump over the blade or bounce off the top of the blade I know I'm getting thin they're not going in between anymore

so I know that my blade is it's Indus that I needed especially right in here I've got a little area sticker here so I'll give that a little bit more attention until I get to sparks jumping over the top of the blade there you can see that happening right there that's getting my blade exactly where I want there's a little bit of finessed enough for sure okay so once I've got that blade to where I want now I'm going to take it off the jig and from here I'm going to freehand the micro bevel on the backside take out one screw and that will release it from the jig that screw back in there so I don't lose it put that aside and now I'm going to come in here and turn the blade up on end and just freehand a very small micro bevel and it's pretty straight up and down angle

on the back of this blade we can just barely even see it that's exactly what I want

once I get that then I'm going to feel for that

Caroline burrow on the boy not even really pushing this against the platen I'm very early touching it for that micro-velvet

feeling for that bird feeling for that wire edge when I feel that they're not going to take it over to the buff now we're going to bring this tool over to the buffer a little bit of white compound on there get the leading edge first

flip it over roll that bird back and feel my edge at that point I should be pretty sharp without having to much of anything else I have to I've wiped a tool off with an oily rag every one of these tools gets tested

that's a nice draw knife right there beauty okay folks alum Dave Canterbury with self-reliance out there in the Pathfinder school I appreciate you joining me today I heard the Pathfinder Forge and the Pathfinder school classroom for a quick video on how I make the Pathfinder packable draw knife that we will be selling soon on our website I've got about twelve or fourteen of these finished and ready to go to SRO I've got another 50 blanks that just came back from water jet at SRO to pick up to bring out here to have my son finish up of work on so we'll be trickling this into our web site as we can but I wanted to show you the process of how these are made and how they're tested and what the finished product looks like on the video today I appreciate your views I appreciate your support thank you for everything you do for our school for our family for business all of our sponsors instructors affiliates of friends and I'll be back with another video as soon as I can thanks guys