Pathfinder Outdoor Journal Ep1 FULL HD Episode

Description

http://www.thepathfinderstore.com

Dave Canterbury, David Canterbury, The Pathfinder School,Bush Craft ,Survival skills, Historical Lore, Primitive Skills, Archery, Hunting, Trapping, Fishing, Navigation, Knives, Axes, Fire, Water, Shelter, Search and Rescue

Tags: Bushcraft,Survival,David Canterbury,Dave Canterbury,Pathfinder,The Pathfinder School,Archery,Hunting,Fishing,Camping,Primitive Skills,Fire,Water,Shelter,Navigation,First Aid,Search and Rescue,Signaling,Prepper,Preparedness,Self Reliance,Survivability,The 10 C's,Knives,Axes,Saws,Bow Drill,Ferrocerium Rod,Ferro Rod,Tarp,Hammock,Canteen,Cooking,Longhunter,Trapping,Survival Skills (TV Genre)

Video Transcription

[Music]

[Applause]

hey I'm country backwoods and hungry I spend every Sunday just living good a little hunting on the weekend with this episode of Pathfinder outdoor journal is being brought to you by self-reliance Outfitters the Pathfinder School Duluth pack battle horse knives short lane arms lansky survival resources Carbon TV and survival life from hunting to fishing to camping to survival self-reliance Outfitters has the quality outdoor gear to help you and your family make the most of your next outdoor adventure visit us online at WWF reliance Outfitters calm outdoor gear for outdoor people

at the Pathfinder school in Southeast Ohio we trained hundreds of people each year in short-term emergency survival emergency preparedness self-reliance and sustainability we trained individuals families and groups with low instructor to student ratios to guarantee the best possible training environment for your money to join us for an upcoming class please visit our website at the Pathfinder school llc.com Duluth pack handcrafted in Duluth Minnesota since 1882 true outdoorsman like Dave Canterbury have been using in our canvas and leather products for over 130 years our american-made time-tested craftsmanship makes Duluth pack the only gear you'll need for your next adventure hunting fishing bushcrafting camping canoeing business gear backpacks all this and more at Duluth pack.com southeast Ohio at the base of the Appalachian foothills every year here at the Pathfinder school we train several hundred people and everything from short-term survival all the way to long term sustainable self-reliance skills like blacksmithing and traffic stay with me as we step back in time to the days of Daniel Boone to the days of George Washington Sears or Nesmith the days of Horace Kephart and move forward into the time of Fred bear while we learn and gain our Doctorate and woodsy knowledge per se the frontiersman of the past can teach us a lot we live in a world today of gear and gadget REE where the norm is a compound but when a pair of binoculars and with a GPS and a nice big tree stand I'd like to move back in time and look at the gear accoutrements and equipment that we're carried by our ancestors so that we can better understand what's truly necessary for us to live off the land long term or short term and make us more wilderness self-reliant I think it's important that we understand the terminology of survival survival is a term that's thrown around fairly loosely nowadays and in the truest sense of the word survival means the chance of eminent life or death if I don't do this or that my life is immediately in danger what that boils down to is protecting core temperature I have to stay warm but not let myself get too warm I have to stay cool but not let myself get too cool and that's the important aspect of survival that we need to understand right off the bat because everything encompasses core temperature control in a looser term the word survival can also mean living off the land day-to-day to affect your survival needs over time things will change over time in the immediate sense of the word we have to protect our body's core temperature lots of things go into that including water including food including shelter including fire but in the longer term sensitive word we also have to provide constant water constant food medicine self a shelter longer-term all of those things it compass a longer-term sustainability or self-reliance and that's what I want you to understand our forefathers our ancestors were very good at understanding what it took to become wilderness self-reliant and that's what I want to talk about with you today so I think the first thing we need to discuss in this series is we need to discuss what I call the five C's of survivability if you look back in time even further than Daniel Boone if you look back - OH - the ice man who was frozen in the Swiss Alps when he died thirty five hundred to five thousand years ago during the beginning of the Copper Age he had five items on him that were common to all of the other people throughout history that we're going to look at those five items are a cutting tool a combustion device for making fire some type of cover element to be able to effectively keep yourself away from the weather and provide a microclimate of warmth a container that he could carry water over distance disinfect his water or that he could make medicines or food in and then cordage and cordage is very important because Cornish helps affect a lot of other things and cordage is very difficult to make in mass quantity off the landscape without a great amount of time expenditure and that's the importance of these five items more than anything else is that they are all difficult to reproduce from the landscape they take a certain specialized material and a certain specialized skill set in order to reproduce them properly depending on the environment you live in so these five C's we're going to discuss in depth one at a time so let's take a few minutes to discuss these five items in the criteria that these five items should meet for a basic survival type needs so let's start by discussing our knife our knife is a very important tool in most woodsmen carry one a belt knife is a very important asset for lots of things in a survival scenario from processing wood to processing game and building all the things that you want to build the construction will begin with cutting that you may have to use your knife for if you don't have a secondary alternate cutting tool like an axe I like to carry a knife that's at least five inches long I like that knife to be 5 inches long because I figure that a four inch log is going to be structurally sound if I'm going to have to baton this through something to cut a tree down that's four inches or to split a piece of four-inch wood which is point large enough to be fuel for my fire then I want something hanging out the other end once this knife gets buried into that log I can also use a wooden wedge to split that down with and we'll talk about that later as well but if I'm batani my knife I want something sticking out the front end that's why the five inches is so important anything over about six inches becomes more of a chopping type device and you don't have as much fine carving control anything less than four or five inches anything less than five really it's going to be too small for some of the tasks you may need it for if it's the only cutting tool that you're carrying it needs to have that 90-degree hard spine on it what I mean by that is it can't be rolled over on that edge to give you comfort when you're pushing down on with your thumb it has to be a hard 90 degree spine so that it will readily remove material from a fair cerium rod force fire-starting and we'll talk about that in just a few minutes it should be a high carbon steel non stainless unless you're on a coastal area where stainless is very important high carbon steel will give you more flexibility in that it will be easier for your sharpen in the wild it will also give you the ability if it's hard enough to strike a flint rock or stone or chert or something like that off the back of your knife and drive sparks from the back here as an emergency fire starting back up we want this knife to be non coated we don't want some type of powder coating on this knife again because we need to be able to use the spine both for scraping and for a striker so we don't want anything coating this knife that's going to prevent that from happening and then we want this knife to be full tang and that means that it's one solid piece of metal with the handles bolted to it or the scales pinned or bolted to the metal that way if something happens to these handles we still have the full-length knife and we can just wrap it with something to make a comfortable handle but if we don't have that full tang and we have a rat tail Tang or just a smaller piece of metal going back into the handles and we break that knife our breaking point generally will be at the big end of the handle area here and that's going to considerably shortened our blade if we have to tie this to a stick to enable it to be still used as a knife or a cutting tool of some sort so those are the criteria I look at when I'm looking at a blade that I'm going to carry on my belt let's next discuss combustion for a moment the most modern tool that we have available to us today for a reliable fire starting implement is the ferrocerium rod also known as the Ferro rod this is a fairly large barrel rod you can get them in many sizes from very small to fairly large this one is about 4 inches by 1/2 inch and I would suggest that you carry the largest rod you're comfortable carrying because you want that maximum surface area when you're striking it with your blade to remove the maximum amount of material that you can from the rod and that's the important understanding is that the way a ferrocerium rod works is it's made of multiple metals that will burn readily when you combine the friction of removing the material with the material that becomes the fuel with oxygen and the air which makes that material combust and it will burn at 5,000 degrees or there abouts when it comes off the end of this rod so the more material that you can remove the more sparks are the more hot molten material you're going to have landing in here would be fire or tinder bundle or bird nest and that's an important thing to understand and that's where that 90 degree spine on that knife comes in because you really want that thing be able to drive material off the end of this rod without a whole lot of effort and if you've got this rod and you understand the materials around you your resources and you have the correct blade or the correct striking device for this rod you should just about be able to start fire in any weather condition so let's talk about containers the criteria for a good container is number one that it's made of metal it needs to be able to withstand the flames of being put in the fire I want to be able to collect my water in this container take the lid off and place this into the fire to disinfect my water by boiling the CDC and the Wilderness Medical Society both agree that the safest way to create potable water is to filter and then boil so I'm always going to boil my water if I have the option collected from a native source a wide mouth on that container makes that job much easier than a small amount and then I also want a good seal on that thing so it's not gonna leak when I'm running around now if my container has some type of nesting cup like this canteen does or some water bottles then I can also use this multifunctional e as a chamber for making char cloth and talk about that later it's important that everything you carry be multifunctional this container should be able to make your water potable carry your water over distance create medicine if needs be cook your food if it has to and also be able to do things like irrigate wounds by using gravity and water to flush out a fresh wound of some kind so it becomes a very multifunctional piece of your gear and it needs to be heavy-duty our cover element is one of our most important parts of our kit it provides the microclimate that's going to protect us from the weather in an emergency situation if we have to spend a night or more in a woodland environment the shelter components that I carry are made up of two things they're made up of a wool blanket and an oilskin tarp the reason I choose the wool blanket over a sleeping bag is that wool is the only material that will retain about 85% of its insulative value even if it's soaking wet and that's an important factor to understand when you're picking gear that you're going to carry because that extra insulated value when something is wet can mean a great deal a difference on a cold wet night the wool blanket that we're carrying is merino wool it's 100% wool it's important to understand that 100% wool is what you're looking for because that's going to retain the insulating value even if it's wet combinations of wool are going to give you lesser retention of insulation so 100% wool is important this blanket is fairly lightweight it's more of a three-season type blanket if it were winter I'd be carrying something heavier weight like a Hudson Bay weight or a thick heavy wool blanket this one's a little thinner I have my ax tucked into it I haven't rolled up on the bottom of my backpack this is a queen-size blanket that is the other important criteria besides one percent wool for this blanket is that it needs to be queen-size so that I can basically roll into this blanket and create multiple layers of cover to trap warm air between the layers and keep myself nice and warm and nice and dry if the weather were to drop even in a early spring or fall time environment as far as the main cover element or your tarp you could choose to use this in bed roll fashion on the ground or you could choose to set it up into a shelter configuration and mine has just rolled up basically taco it into my bag and my water bottle sits inside of it it's an 8 feet by 8 feet piece of oilskin cloth that has tie outs it has 16 tie out points sewn into it it's very lightweight I think the weight of this total is about 4 pounds for this 8 by 8 tarp but again oilskin is going to give you maximum protection better than SIL nylon of any kind it's also going to give you that better durability that you're looking for the smaller your kit becomes

the easier it is for you to carry single items that may weigh a little bit more if I'm only carrying five to ten items in my kit I can stand for them to be a little heavier than if I'm carrying 25 or 30 the last piece of the five seas of survivability is cordage cordage is important for bindings lashings for building lots of things that will help you affect survival both short-term medium and long-term and the only criteria for this cords really is that it can be broken down into smaller fibers so it needs to be a rope type Cori's that is woven from at least three strands this is number 36 tarred mariners bank line it can be broke down into three smaller fibers number 36 is about three hundred and twenty pound test and you get several hundred feet of it on a one pound roll so you're carrying one pound of weight for an awful lot of versatile cordage and that's an important thing to understand when you are going to use it in these type applications just a piece of cotton twine or jute twine is not going to do near as well for you as something like this

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emergency preparedness products check us out at survival resources com as we step back in time and look at accoutrements and equipment of our forefathers of people's in the past one of the most romantic things in the survival in bushcraft community is primitive fire friction fire and the bow drill fire would have been the common method of friction fire in the Eastern woodlands by native peoples of the Americas and there's really no big secret to making friction fire there's three main input variables that you have to control that is the material your form and the amount of downward pressure and friction applied to the board into the top block to find the proper material for a bow-drill fire you don't need to know every tree in The Woodlands you need to understand the properties of what you're looking for what you're looking for is a softwood that's a very lightweight that you can put your thumb into and it leaves an imprint in the board a thumbnail impression where you pushed into the board that will give you the proper material you can make the board and the spindle from the same material these are both tulip poplar which is actually a magnolia it's also called yellow poplar Daniel Boone's canoe was made from the yellow poplar the bow that we have is also made out of tulip poplar and it's just a straight piece so we're going to put our spindles to the outside and then we need a bearing block which is just another hard piece of wood to push down on the top that's harder than the rest of the components so that it doesn't wear and cause friction in the top of the spindle as we want all of our friction in the bottom of the spindle so what I'm going to do today is I'm going to kind of walk you through the basic form of creating an ember we're also going to talk about the basic construction of the bird nest one of the most important components of friction fire when making fire with an ember that's created by friction is the bird nest that you're going to place into your fire leg once you've blown it into flame and this is probably the second biggest failure point that I see at the pass finer school from students once you get used to the mechanics of the bow drill and how to create the set you can fairly readily create a call once you do that you have to be able to put that into a material bundle that you can blow into flame and effect ignition and that's the tricky part you've got to have material that's fine medium and coarse but you've also have to have something that's going to be highly combustible and inner barks work really well for that as well as outer bark from some trees this is the inner bark of the tulip poplar or the yellow poplar so we're using that yellow poplar throughout this set to make our fire so we've got one tree and we understand that tree we can make friction fire we just have to find something harder or our bearing block an oak hickory beech yeah blue beach or Ironwood muscle woods as some people call it all of those are very hardwoods and will work well for your top block that your entire set other than that can be made from the yellow poplar so once we have stripped this bark inner bark out of the tree we have to process it down when I say process it down I mean that we have to shred it and we have to make sure that we have fine coarse and medium materials and anything that comes off of this bark during the shredding process we want to capture on something so what we're going to do is we're gonna bring our haversack over here close to us and as we shred this we're going to catch that material on the haversack flap so as we begin to shred this material finer and finer you're going to see that they're going to be a lot of materials fall off and be caught on to this haversack and you can see all these fine materials those materials are what we want in the middle of our bird nest and we'll save some of this aside and we'll collect all of this fine material here and we're going to put that in the center of our bird nest that's going to be the material that has the most combust ability because it's going to be the finest material we have [Music]

[Applause]

hey I'm country backwoods and hungry I spend every Sunday just living good little fish a little hunting on the weekend with a bow obviously back in the world

Aaron nauman baby once the bundles on fire we want to turn it over on itself and put it in our fire light as we walk through the past we're going to notice the commonality in the five Cs within the kiss of our ancestors beyond that the one commonality will always be a way to secure food or will you secure meat whether it was fishing hunting or trapping for the long term all of them carried some implement whether it be the bow whether it be a shotgun or rifle or something in between they all carried something to secure meat sources and that is an important understanding for long-term sustainability we have to not only have our doctorate and woodsy knowledge and understand the resources around us but we also have to be able to secure meat sources in the end you

you

this week's survival tip on Pathfinder outdoor journal is brought to you by Carbon TV on this week's outdoor survival tip we're going to talk about the proper use of the ferrocerium run stay tuned our first step in proper ignition is to understand the material that we're trying to combust we need to use something that's highly combustible that's dry and has lots of fine fibers and surface area to catch our molten sparks coming from the ferrocerium rod once we have that under control and we have a proper nest of material or a proper bundle of that material we can lay that aside then we need to understand that we have to have a sharp 90-degree edge on something harder than the rod that could be our knife that could be some type of designated striker or that could be some piece of glass a rock that's harder than the metal in this rod and glass quartz Flint will all work for that its purpose the next thing that we need to understand is we want to pull the rod toward us with the sharp edge of our striker against the rod like this we don't want to move our knife and push into our tinder bundle we want to anchor ourselves well and pull against our striking device once we have processed our tinder material and gotten our fine fibers ready we can put that at the base of our fire lay anchor our hand well and use the rod to pull back away from the striking device that will give us almost instant ignition folks I'm Dave Canterbury with the Pathfinder school and Pathfinder outdoor journal I want to sincerely thank you for taking time out of your day to watch this show I hope you learned something do me a favor take a child to the woods and help him gain his doctorate and woodsey knowledge god bless you we'll see on the next episode of Pathfinder outdoor journal [Applause]

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