Sloyd Project 1 Fid

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Dave Canterbury, David Canterbury, The Pathfinder School,Bush Craft ,Survival skills, Historical Lore, Primitive Skills, Archery, Hunting, Trapping, Fishing, Navigation, Knives, Axes, Fire, Water, Shelter, Search and Rescue

Tags: Bushcraft,Survival,David Canterbury,Dave Canterbury,Pathfinder,The Pathfinder School,Archery,Hunting,Fishing,Camping,Primitive Skills,Fire,Water,Shelter,Navigation,First Aid,Search and Rescue,Signaling,Prepper,Preparedness,Self Reliance,Survivability,The 10 C's,Knives,Axes,Saws,Bow Drill,Ferrocerium Rod,Ferro Rod,Tarp,Hammock,Canteen,Cooking,Longhunter,Trapping

Video Transcription

morning folks I'm Dave Canterbury with the Pathfinder school and the project we're going to work on today in our first floyd or knife style project in our green woodworking series it's called the fit and this fit is 12 inches long it's measured off in 1 inch increments so that it becomes a measuring device and it's used for marlinespike seamanship it's used for opening lays and plots of rope so that you can create eyes or weave rope inside of another broom and this won't come in very handy for us during some of our furniture making when we're using ropes and things like that for seats for some of our chairs and things like that so that we can open those legs up rope and feed rope in between the legs it also is a depth gauge because it's measured in inches it is your ruler because it's measured in inches and in days gone by of marlinespike seamanship it was also used as a last-ditch weapon or to open a quick hole in sail canvas stay with me will you start okay for today's project what we're looking for is Hickory and this is a young Hickory now freak one of these end branches off please

you can kind of see the leaf pattern here of the Hickory they're alternating leaf patterns kind of oblong shape and there's several of them on one branch all of these have several leaves on one branch and they alternate now Hickory is a very very good hardwood it's great for making bows it's great for making handles for tools and things like that and what we're going to make today similar to a tool handle it's going to be a handheld type tool that we're going to use so we're gonna use Hickory to make that tool so what we're gonna want is a piece that's about an inch to an inch and quarter in diameter and about 13 inches long because our finished piece is going to be 12 inches will give us a piece harvested get back over the classroom and get to work now for removing the bark off of this piece we're going to grasp the knife just like a fist just like this and we're going to do a push cut using our shoulder momentum or a shoulder strength we're not going to bend our arm and as we come down with this blade we're going to start at the crocks of our hand here and we're going to come down a little bit like this and we're going to use the entire length of that blade as we make that cut so that blades constantly moving sideways which will give us much more cutting power than just a sheer cut that was straight down see how that's working now if I get a knot I can just use a straight shirt cut with that just like that to turn that knot away and get that squared up there's another knot right here I can do the same thing just a sheer cut across that turn it over get the rest of my bark off the same way you'll be able to feel your knife it will cut much better for you if you don't try to go straight down it'll cut much better for you if you use the entire length of the blade with your cuts and this is a basic cut that you need to learn is this power cut this power push cut and again don't bend your arm or your elbow use your shoulder lift your body up when you come down just push straight down with your shoulder you can do some pretty fine shaping this way just kind of go up and down at the waist getting around these knots that's where you're gonna run into issues with your shaping so just go around them and then shear cut through them just like to happen

then go back around with short cuts of shape look you can see that or not but there's green right there we kind of have to get through just smooth that out and we can do that with slow controlled strokes we can even do it with scissor strokes and scissor strokes are just kind of where you've got your knuckles are kind of right next to each other like this and you're just kind of pulling this way again using the whole length of that blade to give you that cut again just safety there there's no way that thing can hit you cutting that way now the other way that I find works really well for shaping something I'm gonna move this a little bit is what I call Annie Annie grip okay Annie grip that you're using with a knife should have some kind of a safety involved in it and for us here the safety is we've got this thing outside of the triangle of death here and everything that we do is going to take that knife away from us and if we put the knife here in our leg it gives us the leverage that we need and we can pull the piece and push the knife at the same time just like this and I'm just kind of rotating the knife with my wrist as I go if I need to pull off large amounts of material I can do those same type cuts by holding the knife stationary to just take out smaller chunks of wood like this I can also do that same thing with a longer cut like this but I'm going to get a finer cut with my blade if I use the full length of my blade like this when I'm cutting the next thing that you're gonna want to get used to when you are carving wood with a knife its cutting towards yourself and there's lots of ways that you can do that safely if you choke up on the knife a little bit see I've got my thumb on the side of that blade and I bury this workpiece in my body and I turn my wrist out a little bit so that no one thing that hit me is the handle of this knife when I pull that knife in I'm dropping the blade down at the same time so that it stops to stop for that it's always gonna be right there at my body once that blade hits my body or that handle hits my body excuse me

once that handle hits my body that blades never gonna come in contact with my body by doing that and I can get some very fine cuts doing that pointing the blade down

another type shot that I can use I can use a push cut with my thumb a thumb assistant cut and that works really good if I'm trying to round something off or tape or something like this where I can just do little cuts at a time my thumb's controlling the blade I've got that same grip on the blade that I had with my push cuts or my shear cuts and I'm just pushing it with my thumb the blade can never come in contact with anything that way it's very controlled and I can take out very small chunks to do exactly what I want to do to round this thing off just like this okay another thing you can do is you can't choke up on the knife like this get it tucked up into you this way you can actually use these back fingers to push that blade up and that will allow you to get very fine shavings especially around things like spoon bowls

and again the stop is here your knuckles gonna hit the wood so the night can't go into you and you keep this hand below the blade and you're just pushing it's a very light cut it's not a power cut you're just a trim cut by pushing the blade up with this hand and controlling the angle with this hand all right now your first real priority with this project is number one to get barked and number two to get it straight you can see there's a little bit of a hook right here we want this thing as straight as possible so we're going to have to remove some material around that knot because it's not it's what's doing that so we're gonna have to get in there fairly deep and if we go against the grain like that then we've got to come in with some finer cutting techniques to get that straightened out come in from the other side there's a little sweeping cuts like that away from your body iron shaving same thing come up in here like we talked about before get some really fine shavings that way as well now I need to start taking off - you bigger chunks all the way around and I'll just pass it this thing all the way around like this I like to use my leg right here they kind of push against I'm doing this as well and it gives you kind of a guide remember that does not can't hit anything

as long as you got to stump back now when you get down to where you're getting fairly pointed down here what I generally do is always take a series of small push cuts thumb assisted cuts whatever you want to call anytime I'm pushing a knife it's always a push cut to me and I'll chamfer that down a little bit because what happens is you tend to loose downward pressure or forward pressure on the end of a cut you end up a little wider on the end of the cut and a cylinder than you do at the beginning that what your cut depth doesn't stay the same so I compensate for that a little bit at the end by rounding it off and then when I come back over here with this knee lever to start my rounding process I don't have to worry about that I've already compensated for it remember you're trying to keep a cylinder here a cone so you can't get too deep on the front side without taking something off further away okay now that we have our point our taper done I want to show you when I designed this knife I designed this so that it would have the abilities to be a spokeshave taking fine shavings it's got a hard 90 degree spine on it for that reason what that does is it allows me to shape my wood without having to have another tool I don't have to have any sandpaper really I don't have to have a spokeshave or a draw knife if I'm in the woods and I can do a lot of my finer shaping work with the back of this knife so if you build a knife or if you design a knife and have it made my suggestion would be that you make sure it has that 90 degree spine on it so that you can do this stuff if you hit an area where you've gone against the grain like right there just come back the other way one don't worry

as far as rounding goes it's a pretty simple process you're just going to do a series of push cuts up to the top just like this and fast at the end of it very similar to the way you would make a bow drill spindle and in all essence and for all sake of purpose what you've made here is a Hickory bow drill spindle it's a little bit oversized but it's about the right diameter about the right shape you want the top of this thing to be fairly point of where the bearing block goes and you want the bottom to be fairly buoyant

now you don't want the bottom to be completely around it over on a bow drill but this right here is about what you want now we're gonna go beyond that we're gonna come up about half way and knock another series of chips out and we are slowly reducing the diameter by doing that on the end green of this piece and we'll just keep going around doing that until we have cut completely through the end grain now we have something that's fairly rounded at the top and then we can go through with finer cuts and smooth things up we're almost to the point now we've cut through all of the end grain now we have a fresh cut piece of end grain right there now we can come through here with our knife and do our fine work like this just using our thumb like a paring cut again our thumbs behind the work the blade is right here in the crook of our hand it can't go anywhere can't hurt us any cutting position that we use to cut material she'd always includes some kind of a safety to keep us from getting cut or keep the blade from coming in contact with our skin okay now and the next step in the project is what I've done is I've laid this beside a 12-inch ruler and I've made marks on four sides of this thing every one inch for 12 inches and then I just drew circles around the piece now we're going to carbon indention all the way around this piece and each of those one inch increments which is going to give us a depth gauge and a measuring device as well as a fit and we'll discuss that okay so now all you're gonna do is come in here with your knife get yourself on a solid surface like this and just push cut that line just like this by rolling your knife across it

make sure it comes out even in touches then all you're gonna do is come in and do a series of small push cuts knock a wedge out about an eighth of an inch is all it needs to be come back in and trim it if you need to you're gonna make another pass in a minute anyway this is just your initial cut and this is probably not perfect it's not it doesn't have to be just has to be close for the woods we're not building million-dollar houses or 500 ollar pieces of furniture if I measure this is one inch and I use that same measurement on everything that I'm using in a project they're going to be the same length doesn't matter whether it's the 1 inch or 1 inch underneath and we're just going to come back through there and knock down all of those high points smooth it out ok guys well let's talk real quick about this project this is mine finished and oiled and a fydd is a device that was used in marlinespike seamanship to open up lays and rope to make eye splices to also undo stubborn knots and rope where they had been tightened up under pressure or possibly frozen in the weather they were also used to punch holes in canvas if needs be and sometimes as a last ditch weapon but with a project like this what I tried to do was I tried to make this a multifunctional learning project because it's pretty simple to carve something that's a cone in shape although it does take some detail to make it a finished length at 12 inches and make it pretty much a rounded shape not to have too much of a hook to it when you're carving it from a tree however the lessons that we learned in this are a we learned how to make the shape of a bow drill spindle and that's important later on we used a harder wood phase and hickory then we would use for a bow drill spindle because we want to use a softer wood for a bundle spindle but then the panics are still there to make that object we've learned how to make a fydd we've made it a multifunctional device in that we can now use it for a measurement device and a depth gauge and we'll use this during the course of our projects in Greenwood working so I encourage you to go out and try to make one of these or get one of these completed and you'll be able to use it later on during our future projects and our green room working Series I'm Dave Canterbury with the Pathfinder school I thank you for joining me here today for this video I thank you for everything you do for school for our family and for business for all of our instructors sponsors abilities and Friends I'll be back with another video as soon as I can thanks guys